Dried mushrooms are ugly bits of concentrated flavor. My choice always is to use dried porcini. They are profoundly meaty, earthy, smokey.

I usually throw a few whole pieces into meat and turkey stock, pasta sauces, mushroom dishes, and  most gravies. Their presence brings out the best in other ingredients. After cooking, they look so unappealing that I will either pull ’em out to nibble on or dice them and add back in.

Sometimes, I grind a few into mushroom seasoning powder to sprinkle on a pot roast, veal chops, or chicken Marsala.